Creative Loafing Ranks of Atlanta Fat Phillys as one of the cities up-in-coming hot spots!
“Where ya from?” I ask Kenny Washington, one of the owners of Fat Philly’s Wings & Things. “D.C.," he says. “What kind of rolls do you use?” I ask with my left eyebrow in a slight arch. “Amoroso's. Why? You trying to see if my cheesesteaks are the real thing?” He laughs and throws me a wink. Before I can say anything else, my boyfriend mentions some Northeastern sports rivalry and they start yapping in unintelligible male-speak. I go into food mode.It's Sunday, which means grease is in order and all food (and drink) sins will be forgiven tomorrow. I go for the triple cheese cheesesteak with extra cheese and meat. The man orders the ribs with baked beans and potato salad. As we wait—and wait you will since this place operates at a down-home pace—I scan the digs. The space is quite modern and feels a little like a franchise with its bright blues, brushed metal accents and booming surround sound. The counter is a great spot to see the cooks in action, but the tables give you a prime vantage point for my favorite pastime: theater of the living. A cluster of ever-present policemen in winter garb huddle around a table noisily chatting with their eyes fixated on one of the mounted flat-screen TVs. Students from the nearby AUC drift in and out in their just-rolled-out-my-dorm-room-bed best.
When the food arrives, it's hot and there's a lot of it. I'm always wary of any cheesesteak outside of Philly, but this spot has the pedigree because Washington's family ran a cheesesteak joint in Philly for 20 years. Each warm 10-inch roll is packed tight with 8 ounces of thinly sliced knuckle meat and your choice of cheese. I still like to get extra cheese and meat because you might as well go whole-hog. The combination of Cheez Whiz, provolone and American on the triple cheese cheesesteak might just be the answer to the notorious Philadelphia cheese wars. The mix of cheeses adds a sumptuous creaminess that enrobes the peppery beef and onions.
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